Sunday, May 5, 2013

Beer on Mt Olympus with Steort

Twin Peaks from Beer Belly

Had an enjoyable weekend. Court and I soloed Steorts for his first time up it, where no one fell so that was successful. We then climbed Highlander, a 12a up BCC right off the road that felt good to send.

Court solo on the classic BCC 3 pitch 5.6 Steorts Ridge

Nearing the top after the spooky slab move

Annie and I originally had plans to get down south with the boys to run the Muley Twist, but the 6 hour car ride lowered our stoke. So we stuck around SLC. I headed up Saturday morning and managed to lower the FKT for our group record on the 7 mile, 4200' vert Olympus to 1:47 CTC. There was still snow on the upper section to the saddle, and the plethora of dogs, old people, and families hiking slowed me down a little, but I have confidence my time will stand for at least a few months. (court claims post bunnion, but I doubt it). I felt like I was redlining it the whole time and my quads now feel like mashed potatoes after kamikazing it back down, but that's what it takes. Not sure I could go faster without EPO. 1:13 up, :34 down. I will say pridefully it is extremely satisfying to pass people on the way up, and on the way down and they have barely gained 1/4 mile between your meetings.

Later that day, Annie and I hiked up to Beer Belly Buttress to taste some of the "best quartzite in the canyon". The quartzite was good, but frankly the ratio of loose talus/bushwack on the approach to quality rock was 15 to 1. Worst approach ever. If you are looking for a hike you will do in the bad place(hell) this is it. Don't bother going up there. Stay low in the canyon, on nice trails, with good rock. Having said all that about how bad the approach was, we did do possibly the best 5.8 quartzite crack I've ever done.My foot got gouged thoroughly in multiple places. My climbing shoes contain goblets of blood stains.

Beer Belly Buttress
Annie enjoying 5.8 jamming on the 160' Six Pack Crack
Talus, schwak, and bloody ankles


  1. So all I got to do is shave 10 on the way up and 6 on the way down. hmmmm. Next time you do West Slabs let me know. It should be ready soon eh???