Thursday, September 19, 2013


Its not often I think sport climbing deserves a designated blog post, but I recently went down to AF and sent the, as some put it, "sandbag 12b",  Helix in the Black Magic Cave. It is definitely one of my new favorite sport routes. This unique climb is a wild ride. It starts out with a testy slab on super pebbly stone to a decent rest under the roof. Then it climbs a steep juggy flake before you lunge both arms into a hole in the apex of the cave. A ab crunching 180 flip around and a fat jug pocket lands you on the opposite side of the cave, then it underclings its way back into the cave before a double toe hook bat hang from another hole allows clipping the chains. The name is perfect as the route literally spirals up the cave like a DNA molecule. It packs a pumpy punch in the 10 or so bolts.

Black Magic Cave

I managed to redpoint it on my 4th go with Jake taking some pics on a fixed rope and Court countering his lack of motivation by providing Kettle Chips and PB M&Ms. Most of Jake's pics didn't turn out great due to poor lighting, but a few good ones emerged. Despite him almost killing us with stray bowling balls while finding a rap anchor we were appreciative of his photo effort.
Court moving off the flake to the hole

Testy slab done, heading off into the roof

Steep and Juggy! Focused on the next clip

Court lowering off midway despite my heckling to continue

Get on this one, its stellar!

1 comment:

  1. I'll make sure to get on this one as soon as I come home. But actually, I'm still just waiting to see the photos from your Greece trip. Donde? Por favor.